We went there several weekends ago for dinner, and it was simply outstanding, especially considering that it was still their first week. Factoring in the prices (astonishingly low for the quality), Nicholas is one of the city's best bargains. The Nicks have followed that familiar path of young chefs from hifalutin kitchens who open their own place as a BYO to show what they can do.

And food-wise at least, they're doing everything right. We go BYOing a lot, and this was one of those gems that we run across every year and a half or so - completely memorable. Nicholas could be a serious contender as one of the better New Americans in the city, certainly east of Broad. They kept it simple, edited down the dishes nicely, added nothing fussy or extraneous, and paid close attention to the vegetables, which is a consistent measure of a kitchen.

They had the best mussels that I'd had in a very long time - a little white wine, a bit of tomato, and some lightly smoky pork fat to round out, soften, and unify the flavours. This was head and shoulders above what you'll find even at most of the mussel joints around town. Likewise, the simple preparation of the chicken breast that featured perfect cooking is also an indicator of a kitchen that really knows what it's doing.

OK, here's the deal: Nicholas isn't just some new place in the neighborhood; if they stay consistent with the quality and attention to detail of the meal that we had, continue to make little tweaks and updates here and there, and perhaps offer some specials, it's going to be a destination restaurant. Seriously.

The Nicks have the pedigree, which is well and good, but they deliver with what they put on the plate in front of you, and they do it extremely well, mainly due to the simplicity; simple can be very difficult.

Pennsport as foodie destination? More places need to open, but don't laugh. The Ugly American is packed, and likewise serving up some very very good food. Nicholas is your classic 24 (or so) seat BYO with the hotshot young chefs who are totally cool about everything, with killer dishes at kind prices; I'd have paid twice as much for what I ate and still been happy.