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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2007, 10:51 AM
nyddog nyddog is offline
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Default move to Chicago-advice?

Hey PB-An opportunity has presented itself and we may be looking at a move to the windy city. Any natives on here? I have only been there a few times, but liked what I saw.

We're a young gay couple living in Old City. I used to live in lower Manhattan, and like the city pace, but grew up in the NYC burbs and enjoy the suburban life as well. My better half likes the city, but he might want a yard. The burbs in Chicago that I liked, and found similar to NY, were Oak Brook, Hinsdale, and Naperville areas. Not sure how progressive those places are though.

If this should happen, we'd like to rent first, and are looking for either really progressive burbs, or city life again. What neighborhoods can you all recommend (I'd say outside the loop-too "NYC" for him-no highrises, etc)? Prefer coffee houses, galleries, parks, etc. Close to a whole foods, drugstore, gym, and downtown for convenience...we'd prefer to not need a car (on that note, any car sharing?). Dont really want to live in boys town, though if anyone has experience, please share.

Any recommendations for general n'hoods, burbs, and/or websites would be great. Budget not yet determined, but I'd guess 2000-2500 rent range.

Thx!
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Old 08-27-2007, 11:52 AM
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Congrats on the move! My husband is a native Chicagoan and I spent 13 years there. I really wouldn't even look at the suburbs. We lived in "Lakeview" and my husband worked in Oak Brook - it was often close to a 90 minute commute by car. The traffic in Chicago is horrible and commute times are out of control. Naperville/Bolingbrook and those towns are even farther.
We lived by Southport and Irving Pk. We were close to tons of restaurants, night life and shopping. Most importantly, we had a LOT of trees and you really felt like you were in the suburbs but yet, right in the middle of everything. We actually lived on Warner which ran between Greenview and Southport. It was THE most amazing area. You may want to be closer south or west if you want to be closer to the EL. We often walked places, took cabs or used our cars. I worked in the Merch Mart for 5 years and took the EL every day, but I usually drove to the El stop because it was about a 25 minute walk.
You may also want to look at Wicker Park - however it's getting very expensive. St Ben's, Lincoln Sq, Andersonville & Ravenswood are also great for the neighborhood feel but yet you don't feel like you're in the city.
I know the city very very well, so PM me if you have more questions!
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Old 08-27-2007, 12:34 PM
preserv8ion preserv8ion is offline
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I haven't lived in Chicago in five years, and a LOT has changed since I was there,s o some of this might be a bit dated... I was in the burbs on the purple line when I lived there, and while Evanston is charming (has a Whole Foods and Northwestern U, and all the bars/dining needed to support a university), I found myself going into various city neighborhoods for the fun they support. It was also annoying to have a 45 minute train ride on the el to get to work in the loop--and that was with the express lines. The faster commuter lines drop you off at the west end of the loop, and by the time I hoofed it across town, it took me just as long to get to work.

Regarding driving: it doesn't seem to matter whether you're driving to the suburbs or the city for your commute..... rush hour starts early and ends late. I had coworkers eight years ago who left their home in the city at 6 am to commute to the suburbs so they could leave at 3. Even then, what is a 30 minute ride in the middle of the night with no traffic was for them at least one hour, with about two hours to get home typical once or twice a week. It only gets worse at peak times. Life in most of the suburbs is highly auto dependent to get around town or into Chicago, so if you're looking to avoid car usage, you might have to live right next to the train station, which might take you to work but won't necessarily take you to the grocery store. Chicago does have car sharing, and if I remember right, you have your choice of the not for profit Philly Car Share type program, or the for profit ones.

I'm partial to the north side, being a native of that half of the city, so I would start on the Near North side (lots of galleries and lofts, not so much lawn), just north of the river, and go north/northwest from there. The Gold Coast will be pretty pricey unless you look hard, but it's lovely and you'll have easy access to Lake Michigan and lots of boutiquey stores. I would push you towards parts of Lincoln Park, Roscoe Village, Wicker Park, and Lake View in terms of progressive, leafy, neighborly, having yards, and all that. Whenever I move back to Chicago, I would love to live in Roscoe Village. That said, there's some great new stuff going in just south of the loop, in printer's row and other parts of the near south side, and parts of Hyde Park near the U. of Chicago are great, if you can find a place without a ton of undergrads.

Last comment: buy a coat that's warm and built for wind, and a good hat. People actually wear them. Just a down coat with no wind stopping won't do you any good, despite its seeming warmth in calm weather. That whole "windy city" thing is an old political nickname, but in January, when there are fresh lake breezes, you wonder if there isn't some weather related truth to the name.

Good luck, and enjoy my favorite city!
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Old 08-27-2007, 01:00 PM
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Illiniwek Illiniwek is offline
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Do you prefer the Sox or the Cubs? That will help narrow down which neighborhoods you'll want to live in....
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Old 08-27-2007, 01:15 PM
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Not a native but I am in CHI quite a bit (work and play) and have a good number of friends there.

I would second Wicker Park/Bucktown area. I know Uptown section is really coming up and everytime I go there is new construction in the area. Uptown is close enough to Lakeview (Boystown) as well, but not too close that you are living in the "action" of Boystown.
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:02 PM
3rd&Brown 3rd&Brown is offline
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I spend a lot of time in Chicago for work and this is what I've noticed.

In many respects, the suburbs of Chicago are much more urban than suburbs here. So in that respect, a few might be a good fit for you. You mentioned a few, though I'd warn you that Naperville is REALLY far out. Further, while I think it has express service on the Metra to the loop, most people who live there, I think, work in the west suburbs in places like Oak Brook, Naperville, Elmhurst, etc.

Back to the urban suburb thing: A lot of suburbs have main streets with towns and TODs are a big big thing in Chicago, with development quickly densifying around train stations and towns embracing urban development to help with retail, etc in those corridors. Very very very cool, IMO; I wish the same could be said of our suburbs.

In that respect, a number of suburbs have very cool vibes, including Oak Park, Hinsdale, Elmhurst, most of the North Shore big hitters, and even smaller places like Arlington and Glen Ellyn, for example. These suburbs, IMO, are also home to an insane amount of tear down activity, in which 50 and 60's Archie-Bunker style ranch homes are being torn down to build massive 4 and 5 bedroom homes. There are obvious good and bad aspects of this. Some of the good, IMO: towns have been able to re-invent themselves (ex Elmhurst) by getting rid of some pretty innocuous and deplorable stuff. Also, the new homes feel more urban, though this may only feel that way because monstrous homes are now cited on lots previously occupied by 3 bedroom ranches and bi-levels, they're closer to the street and each other. But...these places definitely feel like "towns"/"villages" and not sprawly suburbs as a result. I think I prefer the former.

On to the bad. Most of these suburbs could not be described as progressive, at least in the traditional sense. Sure, it is Chicago, so most who identify themselves as Republicans are probably more liberal than your typical bible belt Republicans, but the towns are still notably Republican.

At least west of Chicago, it is probably worthwhile to mention that this distinction is probably most notable across county lines. DuPage County, just west of Chicago, is a very "red" county, though it borders Cook County, which we all know is Daly land. I sometimes wonder if Republicans seek refuge there simply to find like minds in a big sea of blue.

Many of the towns on this list are in DuPage (Elmhurst, Hinsdale). I think Naperville too is in DuPage, though it might be Will or Kankakee COunties...I can't remember.

One final note, if you want to buy eventually.

The desireable suburbs of Chicago are MUCH MUCH more expensive than the desireable suburbs of Philly. By and large, with the exception of Naperville, these towns are relatively close in primarily, I assume, because families are clustering there for the schools but trying for the shortest commute possible.

On the other hand, real estate in desireable neighborhoods in Chicago, IMO, is much more affordable than real estate in Center City. That, I think, is because there are far more options among urban neighborhoods and thus, the supply keeps prices in check. The are desireable neighborhoods South of the Loop, West of the Loop, and North of the Loop.

Some favorites: Bucktown, Wicker Park, the Ukrainian Village (aka East Village), River North, West Loop, Old Town. The South Loop has also seen an incredible amount of development, though it is not as neighborhoody as the others. Entry level two bedroom condos in new construction buildings can be priced as low as $400,000. Considering that is the price for most 1 bedrooms in new construction buildings here, I would say it is a steal.
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Old 09-23-2007, 10:18 AM
nyddog nyddog is offline
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Just wanted to thank everyone for the advice...latest news is we're here in Philly for another 12-18 mos. Many thanks, though, for all the info, and we'll be checking out the windy city over the next few months.
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